Mujitsu and Tairaku's Shakuhachi BBQ

Thank you, George.

Your post fuels more questions.

Why is 100% pure tung oil better than polymerized?

Does it add any additional protection even if the flute has binding?

Can it be applied to binding without harm, such as rattan?

I read that Walnut oil does not provide a vapor barrier, so it probably is not a good choice. Is this true?

My most pressing question: Is it a good idea to apply the proper oil to a Madake Shakuhachi, or just let it be?

I look forward to learning more.

My two centimes:

Tung oil produces a film, just like varnish, or polyurethane. ALL tung oil is polymerizing, meaning it has chains of hycarbons in it which link together when cured, building a hard surface film that gets thicker with repeated applications. If you just wipe tung oil on, then wipe it off, you'll end up with a thin film after it cures, but it WILL be a film on the surface of your bamboo.

Raw tung oil (pure tung oil) is non-toxic (even though the seeds of the tung tree, from which it comes, are toxic), and it can take days to cure completely. Tung oil is an excellent finish for furniture or similar wood projects. I'd never put it on my shakuhachi, even though I'm sure it'd do no harm. That's just me.

Googling 'tung oil' will get you all the info you'll ever want to know about tung oil (Google is our friend...).

Shellac also builds a film, but can be applied in much thinner coats. It cures pretty quickly, since its solvent is denatured alcohol--quite volatile.

I like walnut oil myself: It moistens and nourishes the wood/bamboo, it's completely edible and easily available in specialty food stores and chains like Whole Foods. You just wipe on a liberal amount , wait 10-15 minutes, and wipe it all off. I also rub in\t in well with my hands. No build up. It does supply some protection, but for me it's mostly an aesthetic consideration--it looks good. I apply it no more often than 3-4 times a year.

The preferred oil in Japan among shakuhach enthusiasts in Camelia oil, but it's not readily available in North America, and it's expensive. Just takes a few drops to treat the flute, though.


Compared to binding, the application of ANY oil to the inside or outside of a shakuhachi has almost no effect on cracking, one way or the other. As George says, binding is your best bet for avoiding cracks. There IS no silever-bullet-in-a-can for crack prevention. Period. Where the flute came from and how you treat it has the most influence on cracking.

eB

I discovered some old postings on my oil question. Take a look at this site and scroll down to the various postings.

http://communication.ucsd.edu/shaku/Sha … /date.html

It seems that some oils can go rancid and that skin oil might be too acidic.

I'm beginning to think that it's probably not a good idea to oil a shakuhachi.

Any thoughts?


(Darren, You seem to be a pro with oils. Thanks for the help.)

Last edited by PSTL (2006-12-06 22:59:35)

It's really strange to me that there are so many different points of view on whether or not to oil a flute and with what oil.

One would think that there would be a definitive answer, considering that the instrument has been around since the days of ancient Egypt, but nooooooo!

Oh well!

eB,
If you've been doing it for 15 years and your happy, then it's good enough for me. I use Walnut oil in my cooking, so that simplifies the process.

Thank you.

I personally oil my shakuhachi only on the exterior with Walnut Oil with good success. I have also used Clapham's Beeswax salad bowl finish. While some cringe at this idea, I have found that the beewax goes on very thin and has been safe for my flutes. I am not recommending this as good or bad, just what I do. I let it sit for a few minutes; then wipe off. It has actually moisturized my flutes and closed up small cracks common around the root ends. Best of all, the beewwax is non-toxic and even edible. Warning, keep the flute away from hungry dogs after application of beeswax :+) (Just kidding, although might be good advice).  I only need to oil a few times a year.   I store my flutes in a sealed plastic bag with cello size dampit inserted at the root end. How you take care of a shakuhachi will vary greatly by player, but thought I would insert my method for the past few years.

Camelia Oil Source:

Pure Camelia oil can be had from a seller on eBay HERE

The seller seems reputable, and has a high rating. The cost is very reasonable for this stuff: US4.75+5.55 shpg for 8 oz. ($10.30) That quantity should last for years, as Camelia oil does not go rancid, and only a small quantity is needed, infrequently, for a shakuhachi. Japanese carpenters and wood workers have used it on their metal tools to prevent corrosion for centuries.

eB

Hey, thank you Ed, for the link to the Camelia oil!  I found that there were many products that this person was selling that I was interested in, for skin care, since I have Psoriasis.

The prices are very reasonable, and she (Katie) says she always combines shipping on Ebay or her website (most all are sold from Ebay), and to wait for an invoice if you do order multiple items.  And, Katie is very responsive to questions, and even had my order packed up before I even paid for it!  Here's her website if anyone is interested besides the Ebay link Ed gave above:

http://heavenlybodiesandbath.com/index.htm

She responded right away to my questions, but she did say she has 3 other jobs and gets pretty busy...!!!

Oh, in her description of the product (Camelia Oil) she does say it has a 2 year shelf life.  So, it may not go rancid, but you might want to use some of it on your skin so it doesn't stay around too long.

Thanks again Ed!