Mujitsu and Tairaku's Shakuhachi BBQ

World Shakuhachi Discussion / Go to Live Shakuhachi Chat

You are not logged in.


Tube of delight!

#1 2008-11-18 14:15:24

dreamofnobody
Member
From: Russia, Krasnodar
Registered: 2007-01-26
Posts: 50

Black wood utaguchi inlaids

Hi everybody.

Not so long time ago I've made my first utaguchi inlaid. I’ve made it from ebonite. But then you are working with it the smell is not very plaesant. So I’ve thought that it would be more plesant to work with more natural and live materials. I heard that black wood is used as material for the utaguchi inlaids. I’ve found e-shop there I could buy the black wood. They sell wood named “Dalbergia melanoxylon”, it has different trade names around all the world as African Blackwood, African Ebony, Black Rosewood, Black Ivory, Grenadille D'Afrique and other. They say this wood is supplied from Africa.

Is it appropriate sort of wood for the utaguchi inlaid? And another question: does different materials(used for utaguchi inlaid) have different influence on the sound and another parameters? Or may be it’s very small differences.

Thank’s.


flutemakerlab@gmail.com

Offline

 

#2 2008-11-18 16:42:57

Mujitsu
Administrator/Flutemaker
From: San Francisco
Registered: 2005-10-05
Posts: 885
Website

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

dreamofnobody wrote:

Hi everybody.

Is it appropriate sort of wood for the utaguchi inlaid? And another question: does different materials(used for utaguchi inlaid) have different influence on the sound and another parameters? Or may be it’s very small differences.

Thank’s.

Most hardwoods will work if they are hard and dense. Horn, bone, ivory, hardwoods and acrylic are all used for utaguchi inlay material. They all have their individual working characteristics.

I find that it is the shape of the utaguchi material or non-inlayed bamboo blowing edge rather than the particular material which is responsible for the sound.

Offline

 

#3 2008-11-19 07:30:28

Toby
Shakuhachi Scientist
From: out somewhere circling the sun
Registered: 2008-03-15
Posts: 405

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

I tried hardwoods for utaguchi inlays, but I found that the sharp blowing edge tends to chip and crumble along the grain. I do not recommend it. And I second the notion that the material itself has no effect on the sound. You want a material that does not warp, and will take and retain a sharp edge in the presence of moisture and saliva. Actually plastic is perfect for that in most respects.

Toby

Offline

 

#4 2008-11-19 15:52:48

Mujitsu
Administrator/Flutemaker
From: San Francisco
Registered: 2005-10-05
Posts: 885
Website

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

Toby wrote:

You want a material that does not warp, and will take and retain a sharp edge in the presence of moisture and saliva. Actually plastic is perfect for that in most respects.

Toby

I've experienced that as well Toby. Although plastic can still chip, in a functional sense, I've found it to be less problematic than the other inlay materials. Wood can split and chip, bone can crack and horn can warp or soften.

(I'll beat Tairaku to this can of worms!) My favorite functional solution: No inlay at all! big_smile

Offline

 

#5 2008-11-20 06:03:18

dreamofnobody
Member
From: Russia, Krasnodar
Registered: 2007-01-26
Posts: 50

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

Great thank’s guys, all your words and advices are very useful and valuable.

It’s good idea to make shakuhachi without inlaid as more natural, but from my first expierience it seemed to me that inlad influence the sound very much. The sound became more ‘clear’, ‘distinct’, ‘loud’(that I can say with confidence about otsu notes) and it seems second octave changed some tone colour(it hard to describe how), and it became some easily to play second octave notes; it seems the flute became more responsive. And there is no one thing in my flutemaking expierience before, that was making so big and evident changes in the sound.


flutemakerlab@gmail.com

Offline

 

#6 2008-11-22 08:36:53

Toby
Shakuhachi Scientist
From: out somewhere circling the sun
Registered: 2008-03-15
Posts: 405

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

dreamofnobody wrote:

Great thank’s guys, all your words and advices are very useful and valuable.

It’s good idea to make shakuhachi without inlaid as more natural, but from my first expierience it seemed to me that inlad influence the sound very much. The sound became more ‘clear’, ‘distinct’, ‘loud’(that I can say with confidence about otsu notes) and it seems second octave changed some tone colour(it hard to describe how), and it became some easily to play second octave notes; it seems the flute became more responsive. And there is no one thing in my flutemaking expierience before, that was making so big and evident changes in the sound.

There is no physical way that the material of the utaguchi can influence the sound: the blowing edge exists only to create the correct conditions for the oscillation of the air jet in such a manner that it couples with and excites the resonance of the air column. If and when you notice a difference, it is always because the physical dimensions of the utaguchi area have changed somehow: either the geometry has changed or the smoothness has changed. Changes in geometry can include a different sharpness of the blowing edge and/or different dimensions. The sharpness of the edge in particular has a great effect on the sound color, as it changes the proportion of the partials.

Toby

Offline

 

#7 2008-12-02 13:21:39

harlequin
Member
Registered: 2008-12-01
Posts: 6

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

Watch out for some woods if you do in fact use wood. Some tropical woods are toxic and in some cases poisonous.

Offline

 

#8 2008-12-02 14:14:40

Musgo da Pedra
Member
From: South of Brazil
Registered: 2007-12-02
Posts: 332
Website

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

I also used bone, hardwood and horn, all of many kinds...


I do not have any problem with the wood utaguchi such as lose of sharpness, SINCE I keep the utaguchi protected...of course the protection of the utaguchi is importantant whatever the material it's made or the ausence of a inlay...but with wood and natural utaguchi need even more atention than other materials, both in making (you can dive the wood on superglue, take it off and let it dry...after you can sand it normally and it will have a most durable shape...I do prefer do not do that since superglue can cause irritation on some people) as said before and care...but again the utaguchi should have a special care in any case...

Last edited by Musgo da Pedra (2008-12-02 14:41:18)


Omnia mea mecum porto

Offline

 

#9 2008-12-02 19:26:33

edosan
Edomologist
From: Salt Lake City
Registered: 2005-10-09
Posts: 2185

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

On Masayuki Koga's 1.8, about 1/4 to 1/3 of the utaguchi inlay (off to one side) is just gone; looks like someone took a tiny hatchet to it.

It's been this way since he got it--long time ago--and he refuses to have it repaired. Thinks it'll mess up his great sound.


Zen is not easy.
It takes effort to attain nothingness.
And then what do you have?
Bupkes.

Offline

 

#10 2009-02-17 07:42:44

dreamofnobody
Member
From: Russia, Krasnodar
Registered: 2007-01-26
Posts: 50

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

Hi again everybody!

Toby wrote:

There is no physical way that the material of the utaguchi can influence the sound: the blowing edge exists only to create the correct conditions for the oscillation of the air jet in such a manner that it couples with and excites the resonance of the air column. If and when you notice a difference, it is always because the physical dimensions of the utaguchi area have changed somehow: either the geometry has changed or the smoothness has changed. Changes in geometry can include a different sharpness of the blowing edge and/or different dimensions. The sharpness of the edge in particular has a great effect on the sound color, as it changes the proportion of the partials.

Toby

Yes, that is truth that I've changed some the shape of utaguchi, in addition I've made utaguchi some sharpen. So it seems that is the reason of sound and another changes in the flute.

Here just one more question.

Ken wrote "I find that it is the shape of the utaguchi material or non-inlayed bamboo blowing edge rather than the particular material which is responsible for the sound."

Toby wrote "And I second the notion that the material itself has no effect on the sound. You want a material that does not warp, and will take and retain a sharp edge in the presence of moisture and saliva."

So my question is what is the unbiassed reason to make the inlaids in the utaguchi? Is the sharpness of the edge in the presence of moisture is the only reason?


flutemakerlab@gmail.com

Offline

 

#11 2009-02-17 09:50:34

Mujitsu
Administrator/Flutemaker
From: San Francisco
Registered: 2005-10-05
Posts: 885
Website

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

dreamofnobody wrote:

So my question is what is the unbiassed reason to make the inlaids in the utaguchi? Is the sharpness of the edge in the presence of moisture is the only reason?

Big can of worms here. We can go in circles with this. One could say a hard insert might retain it's edge longer but can require more extensive and costly repair later. One could also say a natural edge might wear down faster but it's easier and cheaper to repair should that happen. Name your flavor!

Ken

Offline

 

#12 2009-02-17 09:56:54

lowonthetotem
Member
From: Cape Coral, FL
Registered: 2008-04-05
Posts: 529
Website

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

I've heard some folks say that flutes gain character and a richness of tone as they age specifically because the utaguchi loses some of its edge from the air being blown over it.  Perhaps there is a point of diminishing return involved.


"Turn like a wheel inside a wheel."

Offline

 

#13 2009-02-18 03:36:46

Toby
Shakuhachi Scientist
From: out somewhere circling the sun
Registered: 2008-03-15
Posts: 405

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

dreamofnobody wrote:

Hi again everybody!

Toby wrote:

There is no physical way that the material of the utaguchi can influence the sound: the blowing edge exists only to create the correct conditions for the oscillation of the air jet in such a manner that it couples with and excites the resonance of the air column. If and when you notice a difference, it is always because the physical dimensions of the utaguchi area have changed somehow: either the geometry has changed or the smoothness has changed. Changes in geometry can include a different sharpness of the blowing edge and/or different dimensions. The sharpness of the edge in particular has a great effect on the sound color, as it changes the proportion of the partials.

Toby

Yes, that is truth that I've changed some the shape of utaguchi, in addition I've made utaguchi some sharpen. So it seems that is the reason of sound and another changes in the flute.

Here just one more question.

Ken wrote "I find that it is the shape of the utaguchi material or non-inlayed bamboo blowing edge rather than the particular material which is responsible for the sound."

Toby wrote "And I second the notion that the material itself has no effect on the sound. You want a material that does not warp, and will take and retain a sharp edge in the presence of moisture and saliva."

So my question is what is the unbiassed reason to make the inlaids in the utaguchi? Is the sharpness of the edge in the presence of moisture is the only reason?

I think that the main reason for using inlays is that bamboo rather quickly disintegrates in the repeated presence of moisture and especially the chemicals in saliva, which is, after all, designed to break down organic matter.

I agree that a razor-sharp utaguchi is not desirable, as it adds turbulence to the air jet and actually decreases the efficiency slightly thereby (and adds noise to the sound). On the other hand, the more blunt the utaguchi the more decrease in the efficiency of the air-jet oscillation (which acts as the generator of the sound)--especially for the higher notes. So there is a sweet spot on utaguchi sharpness which has to be found.

Toby

Last edited by Toby (2009-02-18 03:40:30)

Offline

 

#14 2009-02-18 05:53:42

dreamofnobody
Member
From: Russia, Krasnodar
Registered: 2007-01-26
Posts: 50

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

Thanks guys for your answers.

So I really do not understand... If I understood in right way then Ken says that it is not matter much if there is the inlaid in the utaguchi. At the same time Toby says that "bamboo rather quickly disintegrates in the repeated presence of moisture and especially the chemicals in saliva, which is, after all, designed to break down organic matter", so if we will follow this then as I understand the inlaid is desirable.

My own thougts about the question that long time ago makers started to make inlaids in their flutes, and this thing remained and became a tradition. So there should be some reasons for this. So my question is what are these reasons. I was thinking before that is not so indistinct question.


flutemakerlab@gmail.com

Offline

 

#15 2009-02-18 06:08:39

dreamofnobody
Member
From: Russia, Krasnodar
Registered: 2007-01-26
Posts: 50

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

Toby wrote:

I agree that a razor-sharp utaguchi is not desirable, as it adds turbulence to the air jet and actually decreases the efficiency slightly thereby (and adds noise to the sound). On the other hand, the more blunt the utaguchi the more decrease in the efficiency of the air-jet oscillation (which acts as the generator of the sound)--especially for the higher notes. So there is a sweet spot on utaguchi sharpness which has to be found.
Toby

Yes I know from my own expierience razor-sharp utaguchi make some not desirable effects. Sound is too acute, and blowing edge must be some blunt to make more soft sound. But too blunt edge makes sound dumb and too soft.


flutemakerlab@gmail.com

Offline

 

#16 2009-02-18 12:13:26

Taldaran
Member
From: Everett, Washington-USA
Registered: 2009-01-13
Posts: 232

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

If you use a sealer on a natural utaguchi, moisture and saliva are not an issue.

I have used raw tung oil which produce a matte finish, and tung oil wiping varnish that produce a harder shinier waterproof surface. I have also used CA glue which when cured is even harder.

I do not see a reason to inlay a weak link in the thinnest part of your shakuhachi for purely esthetic purposes that can be knocked out by a light impact when there are sealers that can preserve and protect the natural beauty of the bamboo blade of a natural utaguchi.


Christopher

“Whoever can see through all fear will always be safe.” Tao Te Ching

Offline

 

#17 2009-02-18 13:07:24

dreamofnobody
Member
From: Russia, Krasnodar
Registered: 2007-01-26
Posts: 50

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

Taldaran wrote:

If you use a sealer on a natural utaguchi, moisture and saliva are not an issue.

I have used raw tung oil which produce a matte finish, and tung oil wiping varnish that produce a harder shinier waterproof surface. I have also used CA glue which when cured is even harder.

I do not see a reason to inlay a weak link in the thinnest part of your shakuhachi for purely esthetic purposes that can be knocked out by a light impact when there are sealers that can preserve and protect the natural beauty of the bamboo blade of a natural utaguchi.

Thanks for your thougts.


flutemakerlab@gmail.com

Offline

 

#18 2009-02-18 16:00:26

edosan
Edomologist
From: Salt Lake City
Registered: 2005-10-09
Posts: 2185

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

Taldaran wrote:

If you use a sealer on a natural utaguchi, moisture and saliva are not an issue.

I have used raw tung oil which produce a matte finish, and tung oil wiping varnish that produce a harder shinier waterproof surface. I have also used CA glue which when cured is even harder.

I do not see a reason to inlay a weak link in the thinnest part of your shakuhachi for purely esthetic purposes that can be knocked out by a light impact when there are sealers that can preserve and protect the natural beauty of the bamboo blade of a natural utaguchi.

If you're knocking out utaguchi inlays, you're hangin' out with the wrong crowd, or imbibing the wrong spirits. [FWIW: I also like the CA treatment;
quick, bombproof, almost permanent, and mostly, it doesn't smell like tung oil..]


Zen is not easy.
It takes effort to attain nothingness.
And then what do you have?
Bupkes.

Offline

 

#19 2009-03-11 00:03:52

Toby
Shakuhachi Scientist
From: out somewhere circling the sun
Registered: 2008-03-15
Posts: 405

Re: Black wood utaguchi inlaids

Taldaran wrote:

If you use a sealer on a natural utaguchi, moisture and saliva are not an issue.

I have used raw tung oil which produce a matte finish, and tung oil wiping varnish that produce a harder shinier waterproof surface. I have also used CA glue which when cured is even harder.

I do not see a reason to inlay a weak link in the thinnest part of your shakuhachi for purely esthetic purposes that can be knocked out by a light impact when there are sealers that can preserve and protect the natural beauty of the bamboo blade of a natural utaguchi.

Because of the cellular structure of bamboo, it is impossible to achieve a smooth blowing edge with it, and it is much more fragile when thinned than a denser material. Both these are good reasons to use an inlay.

I was told by my sensei that sealing the edge is never recommended. They even advise against oiling the utaguchi face. Does anyone know why? Does it have to do with blocking the pores of the bamboo?

Toby

Last edited by Toby (2009-03-11 00:29:40)

Offline

 

Board footer

Powered by PunBB
© Copyright 2002–2005 Rickard Andersson

Google