Mujitsu and Tairaku's Shakuhachi BBQ

Hmmm...it seems to me that all you can really do is make the flute according to how it's grown. Nodes always face up: I've tried making a flute out of an "upside-down" piece, and it worked, but not well. It didn't look right, either. I really did it to work on the utaguchi, which worked better at the thicker end. But I wouldn't reccomend it.

A far as the bottom goes...it doesn't seem like there are really any hard and fast rules about it. When I made my first Tonkin flutes, I didn't know much about looking specifically for pieces that would fit within the different shaku lengths, so I made some flutes that were 2.3-4, 2.1-2, 1.7-8, etc. Only my newer rootends are closer to what size thay should be, but they're off a bit, too. It seems to me that the only rule (for timber flutes) is that you look at where you want the utaguchi, then measure down from there. Try to keep as close to the bottom, thicker stock as possible, but you don't have to cut it in any particular place, as far as nodes go. You're going for the proper length here. It does seem to work well if you cut just an inch or two below the bottom node, then maybe bind it underneath the node or something. That's how I see Perry do it on his timber and black bamboo flutes.

I made a timber flute 2 years ago, and it was near a rootend, probably about 2 nodes up from the root, and it made for an excellent flute with amazing ro. Too bad I messed the thing up. If it had been in tune, it would've been a really great honkyoko flute. Oh well. I'm going to try again in the next week or two, I think. Let us know how yours turns out, and I'll report on mine, too.

Good luck to you!

-Eddie

When you say "hole", do you mean the Utaguchi (the blowing edge), or the ikegashi (breath return) that you blow into?

-E

One other thought, don't open the lower node too quickly or you may have trouble getting a good Kan register.

Kel    §

Darren, I have these small Chinese curved wood files inserted into the end of a copper tube that can reach way down into teh culm.

Kel   §

Kel, that's a GREAT idea. I could take some of my files, or my sandpaper rounds, and slide them into a copper, or whatever, really, tube, and use that. I could even put a small upholstery nail through it, just to hold it in place. Good thinking, man. Oh, you could also use a copper collar at the end of a wood dowel, so you're filing with wood in your hands, if you're not into holding metal.

Darren...make sure to coat the inside when you get all done, too, or you'll probably end up with splitting, like I did. I'm also going to start binding in 2-3 places, even though I personally dislike binding.

Something I've found that works pretty well is this claw-thing I bought at a 99cent store: you've probably seen them, they're about 12-24" long, made of tightly wound coil spring, with a plunger on one end, and four little flexible metal "prongs" that come out the other. Press down on the plunger, and these little hands come out, grabbing a small sounge, or piece of paper towel...whatever. It's good for getting to those nooks and crannies. It's just not stiff enough for sandpaper.

You could also use the above tube technique, and slide round-handled brushes into it, to really get into tight spots.

-E